Wednesday, 16 November 2011

Longyearbyen, an arctic capital in glorious surrounding landscape


Svalbard is a norwegian archipelago in the Arctic Ocean whose largest island is Spitsbergen. Svalbard was discovered in 1596 by the Dutch navigator Willem Barentsz.

The town of Longyearbyen, at the mouth of Adventfjord.
[source Way Kay, Amsterdam]

Longyearbyen (pop. ~ 2100 inhabitants) is the administrative center of Svalbard.

At 78°13′N, 15°33′E, Longyearbyen is also the world's most northerly town.

Located in the shores of the great Isfjorden, more precisely at the mouth of the smaller Advenfjord, the town is surrounded by a breathtaking artic scenery of mountains, fjords and glaciers.

It was founded in 1906 by the american industrialist John Munroe Longyear, who established the archipelago's major economic activity, coalmining - the industry most people on Svalbard still rely on today.

Longyearbyen, main street

The town center in a warm summer day

and in early spring

From October to April, there is darkness or permanent twilight, but then the sun doesn't set at all in May, June, July, and most of August. The yearly return of the sun is celebrated with merry festivities.

Dark red is probably the most frequently-seen shade of pigment in Longyearbyen , but the color palette of newer houses adds variety and beauty to the Arctic townscape.

Longyearbyen's building code requires that houses be painted in colours that complement the earth tones of the tundra.



A residential area - colourful houses contrast with the white environment


Since the 17th century, people of different nationalities came to Svalbard for various activities: hunting, trapping, research, but most of all mining for coal, for wich Longyear founded the town.

The old mining cableway


The small mine in Longyearbyen is now used mainly to supply the town's own power plant.

The town has grown from a mining settlement into a municipality with some 2 000 temporary residents. Each year, about 100 people leave and other 100 move into Longyearbyen : scientists, tourist guides, miners, administrators, and other residents from more than 30 countries.

World's most northern church
at 78°13′N 15°33′E

Built of wood, Longyearbyen church was inaugurated in 1958


Church detail

The church café

Today, the community offers a wide range of activities and facilities, including a swimming hall, a sports hall, a large store and a shopping mall, pubs, cafés and restaurants, seven hotels, one church, shops, a cinema...

The Svalbard Hotel lounge terrace bar


Restaurant Kroa



The recent cultural center and cafe Kulturhuset, for exhibitions and concerts

Huset Café, a historical place, opened in the fifties:

Huset, the oldest café in town, restaurant, cinema and concert hall.

View from Huset's window


The local shopping mall Lompensenteret



The school

The northenmost school in the world, with children from 13 different nations.

Schoolyard

Svalbard Museum




The Treaty of Versailles, at the end of World War I, made Svalbard part of the Kingdom of Norway but allowed citizens of other signing nations equal rights to residence, property, commercial activities and research on the island. That's the reason why many were attracted to the island.

UNIS - University of Svalbard

The University Centre in Svalbard represents four Norwegian universities and provides university-level education in Arctic studies.


Hotels

Recently, with the opening of an international airport with scheduled frequent flights and the increasing number of arctic cruise ships visiting the town and the islands, tourist business is expanding and some fine hotels have arised, like the Radisson Blu or this Spitzbergen Hotel :



View from a hotel window

The surrounding arctic landscape

Longyearbyen is surrounded by mountains, fjords - the Advenfjorden and the Isfjorden - and glaciars - Longyearbreen, Larsbreen, Monacobreen, Esmarkbreen.


The Isfjorden

Isfjorden was first observed by Willem Barentsz as early as 1596.

The Isfjorden as seen from Longyearbyen

A Basque whaling ship from San Sebastian was the first to establish a temporary whaling station here in 1612. Since 1613, French, Basque, and Dutch whaling ships resorted to Trygghamna (safehaven) on the north entrance of Isford.


Trygghamna offers good mooring conditions and the sheltered harbour is protected from most winds.

The landscape around this large bird cliff is lush and impressive.


Villa Fredheim
one of the most well-known hunter's cabins.



Gammelhytta (the old Cabin), built by norwegian hunter Daniel Nøis during his stay in the winter between 1911 and 1912, is part of the Villa Fredheim hunting station, in Isfjorden, where since 1911 his nephew Hilmar Nøis lived for 38 years hunting polar bears, foxes and bearded seals for the lucrative fur, reindeer and ptarmigans also for the meat.

It´s an historic example of old hunting cabin building - moss was used for filling the walls, birch bark covered both the walls and roof, and turf was put up along the walls and on the roof.

Larsbreen, the glacier just outside Longyearbyen

Down along the glacier, Nybyen, where UNIS studentes lodge

Esmarkbreen glacier, across the Isfjorden

In the right hour of the day, the scenic Esmarkbreen reflects a striking blue light.

Monacobreen, the Monaco glacier


A 6 km wide front

The Fram cruise ship visiting Monaco glacier

The region has a rich fauna: reindeer, polar bears, arctic foxes, seals, walruses, whales and birds - ptarmigan, guillemots, ducks, terns...

Svalbard rock Ptarmigan (Lagopus muta hyperborea)


Eider duck, a sea duck (Somateria mollissima), in Adventfjorden

The arctic flora in spring and summer is amazing - some 170 flowering plant species in Svalbard, displaying a rich variety of colours that richly decorate the white or gray soil.

Polar campion (silene uralensis)

Mountain Avens (dryas octopetala)


19 april - the first sun after the long arctic night




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Svalbard's Global Seed Vault

I published before on Ultima Thule a post on the Global Seed Vault, here.

Ny Ålesund

You can also find a post on the historic and scientific settlement of Ny Ålesund, in extreme north Svalbard, here.

Wednesday, 9 November 2011

Winter Whiteness

On the snow or flying above, white bodies of heavenly beauty living in the arctic territories:


The arctic fox Vulpes lagopus in winter



The tundra swan, Cygnus columbianus



Polar bear Ursus maritimus and cubs



The arctic ermine, Mustela erminea


A snow owl Bubo scandiacus in low flight



Arctic hares, Lepus arcticus



The rock Ptarmigan Lagopus muta in winter



The artic Tern, Sterna paradisaea



A baby harp seal, Pagophilus groenlandicus


Or even...
A snow cat :)

Tuesday, 1 November 2011

Villa las Estrellas, an hamlet in Antarctica


King George Island, Antarctica
Population ~1200


Villa las Estrellas

At 62°12′ S, 58°53′ W, this is the only town in Antarctica's South Shetland Islands. It is integrated in Chilean Eduardo Frei Base, a scientific (meteorology) - military (air base) station on King George Island, Filde Peninsula.


It is one of only two civilian permanent settlements on Antarctica (the other being Argentina's Esperanza Base). It has a summer population of 150 and 50-80 in winter - the most populated town of Antarctica ! The average temperature is - 5ºC. Winter (June , July and August) is mostly dark antarctic night, with only 4-5 h of sun light, but in summer there is no real night - just twilight. The longest day is the 25th December, when the sun rises at 3:00 and sets at 22:51.

Villa Las Estrellas was founded in 1984.

The hamlet has 20 prefabricated modules, 14 are family residences. It´s an incredible place, where you can find everything in well equiped small warm spaces.


Bank, post, hospital, school, kindergarten, hostel, gym, store/market, local shop, church:

The catholic church of Las Estrellas: a large metallic container. The local gym, the red-and-white hangar at right, where locals practise cycling, games, athletics...

There is an aerodrome providing the settlement and other Antarctica bases with several connections, with some 200 flights each season.

A chilean Hercules approaching the base, passed over the Trinity Church of neighbour Bellinghausen station.

Vila Las Estrellas and Eduardo Frei Base, showing the hospital, school, church and hostel (clic for a better view).


The local 15 children youth study at F-50 School, a primary school staffed by two teachers.


There is a Hospital staffed with one doctor and a nurse:
The Post Office is also an attraction for tourists and philately enthusiasts that travel to the town to send postcards and letters with an Antarctic postmark.

Not always easy to reach, though...


For visitors, the small hostel "Polestar", a dormitory for up to 90 people:
The settlement is just some 200 m away from the russian Bellinghausen station I recently posted about.

Here you can see the territory, with the orthodox Trinity Church dominating in the far, over a hill: (clic for a better view)


Villa las Estrellas is one of the main ports of call of Antarctica cruises.


Tuesday, 18 October 2011

Southern Thule:

a church in Bellinghausen, Antarctica

Bellinghausen Station is a Russian base in Antarctica, on a mostly ice-free peninsula of King George Island, where several other research stations are located. It normally houses around 25 people to a maximum of 50.

King George Island is probably the most populated region in Antarctica: Chilean, Polish, Argentinean, Brasilian, Peruvian, Chinese, Korean ... and Russian stations were built there for its natural conditions of easy access, natural harbours and relatively mild climate.

In recent years Bellinghausen station gained reputation as a trading post, with station members willing to swap or sell pins, flags clothing...

The average temperature around the station varies from -6.8°С to +1.1°С .
Coordinates : 62º 12' S, 58º 56' W

The Orthodox church of the Holy Trinity


Maybe the most remarkable feature of the station is now its Trinity Church - a small Russian Orthodox church which is the southernmost church in the world (though there is an ice-made igloo-like church, mostly unattended, some degrees more southerly) and the only permanently staffed church in Antarctica.

The church was opened in 2004 - shipped from Siberia in pieces and reassembled at the site. The interior is really well conceived and decorated, creating maybe the best place to feel cosy in all Antarctica!



This church was built in 2003 in the Altaï Mountains, in noble Altaï cedar and larch wood, the logs sealed with a special glue and reinforced with a structure of steel chains to resist strong horizontal guts and storms.



First taken to the port of Kaliningrad on five big trucks, in separated numbered parts, then on board the research vessel "Akademik Sergey Vavilov" to the southern continent in a long trip of more than two months.

Akademik Sergey Vavilov arriving in Bellinghausen

For half a century of scientific exploration of the ice continent, 64 russian polar explorers have found peace in the rocky ridges of Antarctica. Now there is a place to mourn them.


In 2007, the first and only until now wedding in Antarctica took place - the daughter of Russian polar explorer was married to a Chilean polar explorer from the next station.

Slowly, the temporary population of Antarctica stations is settling in a permanent way of living; also schools, hospitals, gyms and restaurants may help this change in a continent with an open future.