Wednesday, 4 April 2012

Deception island: a southern Ultima Thule and last port for the Nautilus


In Antarctica, there is an island so surprising and thrilling that Jules Verne, in his "20 000 leagues under the sea", might have made it the mysterious secret base of the Nautilus - a hidden volcano's caldera.

That's Deception Island, Antarctica, one of the South Shetland Islands.

In fact, its unique landscape comprises barren lava slopes, ash-layered glaciers and steaming beaches! At Whalers Bay, a tranquil area of warm water, still remain the ruins of an old whaling station.

Fuming waters at Whalers Bay.

Deception Island (coordinates 62° 55-57' S, 60° 37-38' W) is one of the most incredible islands on the planet.


This old volcanic crater flooded by sea is just 120 km North of the Antarctic Peninsula, and less than 500 km north of the South Polar (Antarctic) Circle, and is the south limit of the (in)famous Drake Passage.


The center of Deception Island has a distinctive horse-shoe shape around the large flooded caldera, with 9 km in diameter - called Port Foster, a wide basin-like harbour.


Port Foster
has just one narrow entrance by sea into the internal warm water lagoon, through a narrow channel called Neptunes Bellows.

Neptune Bellows are just 230 m wide, at the south-east side of the island ring.

The interior lagoon allowed seal and whale hunting ships to enter and find shelter since the 19th century. In 1914, 13 ships were docked at the whaling station; they were equipped to extract the oil from whale fat.


Two hills around 500 m high are the only elevations; the rest of the edge is lower than 100 m.

This is one of the safest natural harbours in the world, and the only place where vessels can sail directly into the center of a restless volcano. So it's a top destination for antarctic tourist cruises.


B&W: black from volcanic ash and white from glaciers and snow.

Black beaches and cliffs topped by white on the hillsides.

THE EAST COAST


Bailey Head
, at the east side, is the southern extremity of a long straight black beach:

The east cost, some miles of volcano ash straight seaside, is mainly visited by large colonies of penguins.

The main feature in the east coast is the "Sewing-machine Needles", curious name for these rock formations near the beach:

Bailey Head and the Sewing-machine Needles.




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Gabriel de Castilla , the spanish research base

The first whaling station was abandonned in 1931, and in 1969 a volcanic eruption covered all the bases with ashes. Presently, there is mainly one scientific base, spanish station Gabriel de Castilla.

Built by 1990 as a small army station, Gabriel de Castilla base supports the work of investigators in nature sciences and topographic studies.

Gabriel de Castilla was a spanish navy Admiral who sailed around 1603 by these antarctic waters, and reached 60º South.

The base is presently composed of several modules. A residence module (the larger grey building), a scientific module, 3 igloos (a gym, a lab and more rooms for visitors), a nursery, a workshop, and survival modules (energy, supplies)


Winds over 300 km/h, temperatures down to -90 ºC (averages -40 to -60 º C) and less rainfall than in the Sahara... consequently no insects, no viruses, no bacterias, therefore almost no deseases among humans. Just home sickness...

The base is also equipped with 2 snowmobiles, 4 mini-cars, 1 crane and 3 zodiacs. And the research ship “Las Palmas” is a frequent visitor.

The "Las Palmas" leaves

Wednesday, 21 March 2012

Trondenes Church, Norway

Trondenes Church is the northernmost medieval stone church in Europe, situated in Harstad, Norway, north of the Arctic Circle. For ages it was the northernmost church in Christendom.
Location: 68°49N, 16°33′ E

The plan is of the ancient type, with a choir narrower than the nave, but surprisingly of the same length.


The present day church dates back to the 13th century, and was built over the ruins of two older viking stave (wooden) churches ( 11th -12th cent.), after the vikings lost the battle against the unification of Norway . It displays both romanic and gothic styles: arched doorways and thick walls, a fortification against russian assaults.

Main door

Side door

Interior
The organ dates from the late 18th century. In the choir section, one can see remnants of medieval frescoes.

The church is especially known for it's rich decorations, including three gothic triptychs of hanseatic origin, probably from Lübeck.



Detail from the altarpiece: veneration of Mary.

The beautiful baroque pulpit (1762,
rococo style) is equipped with an hourglass to allow the minister to time long sermons:

Trondenes church is well preserved and the exterior is close to the original state.


In the late Medieval period, Trondenes served as the main church centre of northern Norway. Together with Trondheim´s magnificent Nidaros cathedral, they make the most valuable legacy of medieval architecture in Norway.

They also testimony Norway's economic importance in late Middle Age, for the skills and means their building demanded. The dried fish trade between the Hanseatic towns in the North and Baltic Seas may be the origin of that norwegian wealth.

Trondenes in winter:



Location map:

Wednesday, 7 March 2012

Uummannaq, Greenland - an arctic gem facing Canada


A charming inuit settlement in the east cost of Greenland, north of Disko Bay and in front of Canada's Baffin Island, Uummannaq is situated in a magnificent arctic scenery.

The harbour seen as the ferry boat is leaving at low light.

Uummannaq is one the island's northernmost municipalities, surrounded by a majestic and harsh environment of tall mountains, fjords, many glaciers and icebergs, with a rich arctic fauna, particularly fish and sea mammals.


Around 1500 people live in Uummannaq.

Location: 70°40′ N, 52°07′W - 590 km north of the Arctic Circle.

Founded in 1763, the town is a hunting and fishing base, particularly of halibut. The fish are processed in a modern canning factory.


Uummannaq is located on a 12 km2 island at the foot of a large heart-shaped mountain that gave its name:

Uummannaq means, in greenlandic inuit, "The Heart Shaped".

Uummannaq Mountain, rising very sharply to the height of 1170m.
is the most prominent mountain in the Arctic part of the west coast of Greenland.

The mountain is a landmark of Greenland, often reproduced in art.

Dog sledding is one of the main tourist avctivities.

Uummannaq's hotel has a fantastic view over the fjord.

View from the hotel's esplanade

The town center, and the many-coloured houses that add charm to the scenery.


Uummannaq's church


The church isn't very old (1935), but it is an unusual design for Greenland - it was built from local granite.

Close to the church, an old turf house, where the first settlers - mainly whale hunters - lived. It's part of the town's museum, that exhibits also fishing and hunting tools, traditional clothing, old kayaks and oumiaks, photos and charts.

Whaling harpoons at the museum.

Uummannaq Polar Institute

Founded in 2007, it´s an institution that works to conserve Greenland’s local culture and to promote educational programs for young people.

Uummannaq is also home to Uummannaq Music - the world's northernmost music platform on sea ice:

Arctic dancing during the festival.

http://uummannaqmusic.com/


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A presentation of Uummannaq and its music festival: