Tuesday, 13 January 2015

'Ukiorpoq', the winter has come.


I've been reading a collection of poems titled 'Ice - contemporary and traditional poems for the festive season', published by Pighog Press.


The opening poem is this well-known, sublime, unique work of genius:


'Blow, blow, thou winter wind'

Blow, blow, thou winter wind,
Thou art not so unkind
As man’s ingratitude;
Thy tooth is not so keen,
Because thou art not seen,
Although thy breath be rude.

Freeze, freeze, thou bitter sky,
That dost not bite so nigh
As benefits forgot:
Though thou the waters warp,
Thy sting is not so sharp
As friend remembered not.

 
William Shakespeare


That ingratitude of man, which 'freezes' the most Winterly moments of life, is also present in poems by Emily Dickinson, Robert Burns, John Keats...


In that little 'Icebook I also find Nancy Campbell, the contemporary English writer and poet who most dedicates to the Arctic - its people and its places, and the sensations one can experiment only in the frozen landscapes, in a blue-and-white palette under glacial windstorms. This is totally different poetry - the seven inuit words for Winter, sounding like ice-sharpened blowing blades:

'Seven Words for Winter'

ukiigatta last winter.
ukioq the winter; the whole year.
          ukiukkut in winter; during the year.
          ukiuuppaa the winter came upon her before she           reached home, or finished building her house.
ukiorippoq she has a good winter; it is a good winter.
ukiorpoq the winter has come.
ukiortaak the new year.


Nancy Campbell

Ukiorpoq


Someone found how to sing the cold, ungrateful nature of man as Shakespeare wrote:



Tuesday, 30 December 2014

Stornoway,
Hebrides' colourful little capital and a shopping paradise.


Stornoway is a town on the Isle of Lewis, in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland, and one of the most remote scottish towns.


It's the largest town in the Scottish Western Isles, separated from the mainland by the Minch, a strait of the North Atlantic ocean, probably created by the fall of a meteorite. Stornoway is linked to the north-west of Scotland by a two-and-half hours trip by ferry.


Stornoway is an important port, and the major town and administrative centre of the Outer Hebrides.


Coordinates:  58° 12'N, 06° 23' W
Population:   ~ 8 000 (urban area)

The frontline by the Minch's waters is also Stornoway's best historic heritage. The town has a distinctive Baltic profile.

The town was founded by Vikings in the early 9th century, under the name Stjórnavágr, Norse for "Steering Bay". It grew up around a sheltered natural harbour.


Stornoway grew as a fishing port through the 1700s; the 1800s saw the town take advantage of the herring boom, with as many as 6000 fishermen operating from the port during its peak.

Caledonian MacBrayde's ferry arriving in Stornoway


Today the harbour remains home to a significant fishing fleet, and busy with freight, ferry and leisure traffic.

Fresh seafood is always available at local markets and restaurants.

The famous townhall, an iconic building

The waterfront town center, around the Townhall.

Francis street: the Townhall at right, then the 1838 St. Peter's church neo-gothic tower - also a town's landmark.

Perceval Square, the crossing of Cromwell and Point streets. the commercial area.

The historic center, known as "The Narrows", comprises the commercial streets, like Cromwell, Francis and Point Street.

Point Street

Kenneth Street

The Narrows are pedestrianised, providing easy foot access to a range of shops pleasantly different from the usual in other towns.

'Hebridean Jewelry', Cromwell street: a distinctive seafront building.

The pink façade with wallhead gable, in the corner of the main street, reminds dutch architecture - Stornoway had historical links with Holland during the herring boom.

Baltic bookshop, Cromwell street.

'Mosaic', Point Street, for gifts

'Influence', Francis Street, one of the best shops in town.

The old Criterion bar, Point street.

This'n'that, Point Street

'By Rosie' - travel goods.

'The Stag', bakery and tearoom

Downtown department store.

This precious late 19th century blue house is now a restaurant. Also reminiscent of the dutch building style, with a shaped wallhead gable, this "town house" was also built for a rich merchant.

'Digby Chick' restaurant.


Old McNeill's pub, c. 1825, on the corner of Cromwell and Francis street.




The Royal Hotel Stornoway, with its 'HS-1 café bar'.

'An Lantair' art centre

An Lanntair is a multi-purpose arts centre comprising gallery, auditorium and cinema, bar and restaurant. Founded in 1985.


Also known as... "the lantern" !



Lews Castle

The neo-gothic Lews Castle was built between 1847 and 1857 as a country house. From the early 1950s until 1989 the Castle served as a College - Lews Castle College.


Lews Castle is presently disused, its interior in decay, waiting for a development project - a hotel maybe, a museum hopefully.


Visitors are free to walk around the extensive grounds which feature over 100 species of trees.

The entrance gate to the castle grounds.

The Woodland Centre


A pavilion built in the Castle grounds, conceived as a large timber framed glass barn. The magnificently located Café has superb views to Stornoway Harbour.


Museum nan Eilean


Museum nan Eilean was established in 1983 by the Western Isles Islands Council.

One of its main exhibitions was the Lewis Chessmen, a famous early medieval set of chess pieces of scandinavian origin, dating from about 1150- 1200 AD. Some pieces are to go on permanent exhibition at Lewis Castle.

Lewis Chess pieces, scarved in Walrus ivory.
http://www.nms.ac.uk/explore/collections-stories/scottish-history-and-archaeology/lewis-chessmen/

I shall publish soon a new post here, on the subject of the Lewis Chessmen.
As for now, I close with images of Stornoway in dim light:

The skyline as viewed from the castle.

And at sunrise.

Reflections in the low sun.

One of the most precious northen towns.



Friday, 26 December 2014

Paulatuk, Iqaluit, Akureyri, Andenes
- in line and online here at U.T.


On these last days, the visitors map to Ultima Thule displayed a fine set of arctic towns online, as shown on this screenshot. I'm always happier when this happens. Visits from Europe or the U.S. are 'normal', but little remote towns like these make my day.


Thank you, and Happy Festive Season, Paulatuk, Iqaluit, Akureyri, Andenes !

Tuesday, 16 December 2014

Christmas lights brightening up in the Arctic


I wish all visitors the best festive season ever, a Happy Christmas and the nicest ending days of this year 2014.

Some images of arctic settlements and towns celebrating Nöel :

Barrow, Alaska
71º 17' N

Nome, Alaska - the gold rush town.
64º 30' N

Iqaluit, arctic Canada
63º 45' N

Tasiilaq, Greenland's east coast
65º 36' N

Longyearbyen, Svalbard Islands  - the highest arctic town.
78º 13' N

Røros, Norway
62º 34' N

Yakutsk, Siberia - the world's coldest town.
62º 02' N

Æðuvík, Faröe Islands
62° 04′ N

Tórshavn, Faröe islands
60´º 00' N

Trondheim, Norway
63º 25' N

Sisimiut, Greenland
66º 56' N


Even the skies celebrate !