Sunday, 19 April 2015

Lake Baikal, the clearwater heart of Siberia


One of the most inland places in the world, Baikal region is by no means a possible Thule ; but from long ago it's an Utopia destination for me, one of those places I dream of visiting and frequently fancy about when planning a voyage. The region where Michell Strogoff was bound to, half east half west, mixed peoples and civilizations, a liquid paradise in the middle of the immense tundra desert.
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Lake Baikal was practically unknown to Europeans until the 17th century (Russians first heard of the Baikal in 1609 at Tomsk). Since then the Baikal region of central Siberia has changed from a refugee for dissidents and fugitives of Russian prisons and Gulags, as well as a few ermits, to a destination of dream and fantasy for those who like to escape the city confusion, the social life, the conventions of civilization, and live frugally in solitude and communion with nature. Some cabins and villages lost in the north banks of Lake Baikal have for some time been the place for alternate living in deep inland Russia.


This is why Lake Baikal, in spite of being far from sea - one of the most interior places in the world - is taking a place here as Ultima Thule. Though tourism is fastly growing, mainly in the south, since Russia opened its territory to foreign travellers, most of the Lake's banks, forested slopes, bays and coves, are still a well-hidden secret known to only a few on the planet.


Lake Baikal is at the very heart of Eurasia, locked within the massif of the siberian Baikal Mountains, at


Part of the Yenitsev river basin, the Lake is fed by some 330 inflowing rivers. The main ones draining directly into Baikal are the Selenga River, the Angara River, the Snezhnaya River. But it is drained through one single outlet, the Angara River.

Cape Burkhan, one of Baikal's most popular sights.

о́зеро Байка́л, tr. Ozero Baykal;
Coordinates: 53°30′N 108°0′E
Settlements around the Lake: Lystvianka, Sludyanka/ Sludjanka, Baikal, Nikola, ...


Lake Baikal is the most voluminous freshwater lake in the world, containing roughly 20% of the world's unfrozen surface fresh water.
It is a huge lake, a"freshwater sea" of crystal clear waters, 636 km long and 1642 m deep.

Also maybe the oldest - 25 millions years old


Surrounded by mountains, Lake Baikal's shoreline is covered by taiga forest - cedar, larch,pine -descending in slope to the pristine waters.

In some days it's possible to see until 40 m deep.

As expected, these waters are searched by many forms of life; here a siberian taiga lynx:

The Omul is one of the salmon-family types of fish living in the Lake; there are also Trouts, Grayling and even a few endangered Sturgeons.


Mountains, taiga, steppe, tundra, grassland, coves and bays, marshes, stretch for the 2 000 km of the shoreline:


It would take around four months, at normal walking speed, to walk all the way around it.








The average temperatures vary from a minimum of -19 °C in winter to maximum of 14 °C in summer.




Olkhon Island

At 53 ° 09' N, 107 ° 23' W, Olkhon is the largest island in the lake (70 km long and 15 km wide), and quite beautiful with bays and sandy beaches amid steep cliffs. The terrain is a combination of taiga, grassy steppe, cliffs, small lakes and even a small sand desert, against the deep blue waters of the Lake.



Cape Burkhan is the most worshipped site on Lake Baikal. This rock is located near Khuzhir village and is considered as a holy place by the local Buryat natives.





Peschanaya Bay

Peschanaya Bay is also famous for the sand dunes and unique trees found here - stilted trees with their roots exposed above the sand. The constant winds, which blow from the sea towards land move the sand away from the shore and form high sand hills, which are called "Moving sands", as these sand dunes constantly change location depending on the direction of the wind.

Local Lore Museum – a museum dedicated to the history and culture of the people of Olkhon and keeps a collection of minerals, archaeological artifacts and specimens of flora and fauna.
Sarayskiy Bay – located at a walking distance from Khuzir and fronting the Maloye Morye strait, Sarayskiy is one of the unique bays in Lake Baikal that has kilometers of fine sand and a temperate climate suitable for swimming.
Cape Khoboi – is located at the northernmost extremity of Lake Baikal and has a walkable ridge that leads to the edge of the mountain overlooking the lake. Tourists can marvel at and enjoy the panoramic view of the blue expanse and the northeastern mountains across it.
Mount Zhima – the highest peak on Olkhon and stands at the eastern end of the island’s taiga and is held sacred by Shamanist believers.

Khuzhir

" Et si la liberté consistait a posséder le temps ? "
Sylvain Tesson, Dans les forêts de Sibérie
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II Frozen Baikal

The Baikal changes radically throughout the year. Each season gives a whole new face.
During the freeze-up (average January 9 - May 4) Baikal freezes almost entirely.

Heavy frost cracks with the local name "becomes the gap" break the ice on the individual fields. The length of the cracks - 10-30 km, width - 2.3 m.
Gaps occur each year around the same areas of the lake. They are accompanied by a loud bang resembling peals of thunder , or shots from guns

In winter, its surface becomes like the hardest safety glass

The huge forces create chaos on the iced lake - threatening lames of ice emerge unpredictably, adding to the magic of the place with morror-like efects.

The ice takes on a turquoise hue in spring as it breaks and disperses to reveal the shimmering water once again.

By the end of winter, the thickness of the ice on Lake Baikal reaches 1 m.


As for human occupation, let me start with isolated cabins for fishermen and hunters, guards and scientists, as well as poets and ermits...


then, there is
The Transsiberian and the CircumBaikal railway.

The Trans-Siberian Railway was built between 1896 and 1902. Construction of the scenic railway around the southwestern end of Lake Baikal required 200 bridges and 33 tunnels. Until its completion, a train ferry transported railcars across the lake from Port Baikal to Mysovaya for a number of years. At times during winter freezes, the lake could be crossed on foot—though at risk of frostbite and deadly hypothermia from the cold wind moving unobstructed across flat expanses of ice.

Finally, the setllements.

Listvyanka
Nikola
Sludyanka city, south Baikal, industry. It is a stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway.Population - 18 567

Monday, 13 April 2015

Sortland, the lucky blue town of Norway



Surrounded by the astonishing landscape of Arctic Norway, Sortland is a northern entrance door to the Lofoten Islands; this previously rather ugly fishery town is changing colours for a new life.


Sortland is an arctic town located at the mouth of the Eidsfjorden, in the Nordland region of Norway.


An elegant bridge (Sortladsbrua) almost 1 km long connects since 1975 Sortland to Hinnøya, the main of the Lofoten Islands.

Cruise ships as well as the Hurtigruten daily express usually stop at Sortland's harbour.

Sortland is sometimes referred to as "the blue city", since some painted blue houses inspired a local artist to expand the colour to other buildings.


Blåbyen, the Blue City.

Coordinates:  68° 42′ N, 15° 16′ E

Population:   ~10 000 inhabitants.


Some people are less than thrilled by the idea of a blue town. Others are fascinated by the artist’s vision. The idea of having a full-on blue town evidently makes some people furious.


The man behind the idea is the artist Bjørn Elvenes, who envisaged the centre of Sortland as a three-dimensional painting.


At least, this is a project that stimulates lively debate.



Of course, Sortland's church was not one of the 'blue paint' victims.


The current church was built to replace a church from 1776. The present, white, wooden church was built in 1902 in the neo-gothic style.


In Spring and Summer, other colours embellish the possible blue monotony.



But the main attractive of this northern town is the Midnight Sun, occurring from May to July. The Sortland Bridge or the surrounding fjords are great places to observe the dim-light nights.




And of course Auroras are also frequently observed here:


A magnificent Aurora over Sortland's lights.





Monday, 23 March 2015

Livingston Island, South Shetlands:
Spain and Bulgaria in close neighbourhood



The islands and islets along the west coast of Antarctic Peninsula, on the tumultuous waters of the Drake Passage, are home to a number of stations from several countries, making this the most densely populated part of the continent, despite being still an immense desert of ice and rock.

One of the South Shetland islands has been chosen by two nations - Spain and Bulgaria, two distant European countries - to build their stations in close vicinity: Livingston Island.


Livingston Island is the second largest island in the South Shetland archipelago. Its irregular shape is 73 km long for 5 km (min.) to 34 km (max.) wide.

Coordinates: 62° 36′ S, 60° 30′ W

Hannah Point, the west point of South Bay.

Ice cliffs, sharp rocky peninsulas, beaches, coves and bays form most of the coastline. Except for isolated patches by the shoore, the land surface is covered by an ice cap, highly crevassed in some areas, with ice domes and plateaus and a number of valley glaciers.


In winter, temperatures drop to around -25º C, and in summer they rise to an average 2º C, when the majority of snow on site melts. Strong winds buffet the stations, often exceeding 160 Km/h.


The two stations, just 2.7 km apart (5.5 km route),  are located in Hurd Peninsula, facing South Bay and Hannah Point, in small ice-free strips by the shore framed by several glacier mouths. South Bay is a 12 km wide bay in the south coast of the island. The area was known before by whalers which used it as a safe haven.


Spanish Antarctic Base 'Juan Carlos Isits in Hurd Peninsula, 40 m from the shore.

Coordinates: 62°39′ S, 60°23′ W
Occupation: up to 24 places,
                      from November to Mars
                      (austral summer)


Inaugurated in 1988, the base was built using container modules and igloo-tent accommodation.


The recently renovated base comprises habitation and science units and a series of support modules for services and storage. The main building comprises three wings of accommodation arranged around a central core while the science building is a separate structure far enough away to provide a refuge in case of a major fire.


The main building provides accommodation for 24 people, with the option to increase the population to 48 in the future. The orientation of the buildings makes best use of the site topography, with windows framing wonderful views of the surrounding land and seascapes.

'Española cove', seen from up the hills behind - the station his hidden by the rock, where the arrow points.


Byers Camp (acampamento)
an extension of Base Juan Carlos I.


A mainly ice-free ground, Byers Peninsula forms the west end of the Island. On the south of the Peninsula, a large bay called 'South Beach' is the location of the camp.


It consists of two igloo-type shelters, one for eating and cooking, the other working as a scientific lab open to international crews.

- Spanish Antarctic supporting ships -      (buques).

The 'Las Palmas' under bad weather in Drake Passage.

Buque Las Palmas was launched in 1978, the first ship to participate in the Spanish Antarctic campaigns. She has been later reinforced to navigate in iced waters.

The 'Las Palmas' is mainly as a logistic support vessel, while the more recent and strong BIO Hespérides (A33), prepared for ice-breaking, is dedicated to scientific work.

The Spanish Navy 'Hespérides' (1991), 2.830 tons, 82,5 meters .


Antarctic mail from 'Juan Carlos I ' base.

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The 'Johnson Glacier' flows between the two stations, and slides into 'Johnsons Dock', a kind of wide fiord.



The Bulgarian Antarctic Base “St. Kliment Ohridski (BAB) is less than 6 km North of the Spanish station.

Coordinates:  62º 38' S, 60º 21' W, at the Eastern Coast of South Bay.
Occupation:  ~ 25 people during the austral summer (November to March)


St. Kliment Ohridski Base (Bulgarian: База св. Климент Охридски) was named in 1993 for St. Clement of Ohrid (840-916), a medieval scholar, writer, priest and saint.


The main building was built in 1998 and is made of wooden panels; it includes living room, kitchen, doctor's office, storage room and two bedrooms. 

Under a snow storm.

Snow mobiles are welcome equipment for the scientific crew.

300 meters from the main unit is a metal sheet structure, which in summer is used for Orthodox chapel, and in winter for sled stocking.

St. Ivan Rilski chapel (interior), built in 2012.

The supplies and the transport of the Bulgarian crew are provided by the Spanish Navy ships.

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There are plenty of nunataks in Livingston Island. A nunatak is an exposed rocky peak of a ridge or mountain, not covered with ice, within an ice cap.


Helis Nunatak (Nunatak Helis) is a crown-shaped rocky peak located at 62° 32′ S, 60° 04′ W, in the eastern side of the island.

The peak is named after the ancient Thracian capital town of Helis, whose remains can be found at Sveshtari, Bulgaria.

Aheloy Nunatak

A rocky 390 m peak in central Livingston, right on the ice cap's Huron Glacier

Edinburgh Hill


Edinburgh Hill is a rocky hill of elevation 180 m on the east coast of Livingston, at Varna Peninsula by McFarlane Strait.


The area was known by early 19th century sealers and whalers.


An Antarctic sunset
viewed from the Bulgarian station.