Friday, 10 August 2018

Hudiksvall, hidden gem on the east coast of Sweden by the Gulf of Bothnia

- This is also to express my solidarity with the Swedish population who suffered from violent wildfires this month -

Hudiksvall, at the entrance into the gulf of Bothnia, would probably not be the Ultima Thule that Pytheas reached. But being easily accessed by boat and in the shore of Arctic waters that freeze through winter months, enjoying long daylight in summer, and still being rich in History and heritage, Hudik has all that is needed to be Thule nowadays.

The east coast of Sweden borders the waters of the Gulf of Bothnia, an arm of the Baltic Sea. Those are very cold waters, iced during winter, and well known to the old Norse sailors.
Hudiksvall is nested deep into a fjord of the same name - Hudiksvallsfjarden, along the country's east coastal road.

Hudiksvall, Gulf of Bothnia, Sweden

Coordinates : 61° 44′ N, 17° 08′ W
Population:  ~16 000

The town was founded in 1582 by King John III. At the time, fishing and the trading of furs, skins, iron, copper and wood products were the main sources of income, and the city flourished through the 18th century.

The fish business was of great importance until the mid-1800s. During the 20th century, the processing plant has grown relatively slowly and lost its prevailance.

The city's later expansion is mainly due to the timber trade; Hudiksvall developed in the latter part of the 19th century to one of Sweden's leading export ports for timber.

Fisktorget, Fisherman's Square, is a good point to start in the center of old Hudik.

Close by is the Sundskanalen and Möljen, with red boathouses aligned on the two sides of a canal that used to allow boats from the inner lagoon Lillfjärden to the large fjord.

Fisktorget and the Möljen.

Möljen means pier or quay.

The canal now connects Lillfjärden lagoon to the sea. It is 500 meters long. In early times Lillfjärden was the harbour of Hudiksvall, but the connection to the sea was silted up and in 1615 the harbour moved to its present location. Fishermen continued to use the old harbour and until the 19th century they built boathouses along the canal where they landed and sold their catch. Today they are mostly used for shops, restaurants, and only a few for storage.

The warehouses complex was completed in 1800 to provide storage. Until 1938 it was also used as a Market Square. It is paved and decorated since 1995.

Hudiksvall  is also known as Glada Hudik, a term that originated in the 19th century as word spread of its friendly hospitality and its lively social life.

Möljen is especially captivating, even bewitching, at twilight under snow.

In a summer day, it's the best place for a drink.

Also at Fisktorget, an old Phone Box still remains from the Swedish network, Rikstelefon:

But Hudiksvall has history and heritage scattered all around; let's start in the Old Church Street:

Home Bakery, Stora Kyrkogatan

The Church of St. Jakob

Building works began in 1643, and were completed in 1672. During the Great Northern War, when the Russians burned cities along the northern coast of 1721, the church received a cannonball shot through the porch window. It was the biggest single disaster in Hudiksvall's history. The local people will never forget that.

The most tragic disaster in Hudiksvall's history: in 1721 the Russians attacked, and the city was burnt in the ground.
St Jacob's tower spire has been chosen then as Hudiksvall's representative image.

The Culture House is the place for most artistic events.

Storgatan, the main street in the shoppping area, opens with two iconic statues:

Harlekin and Pierrot, Storgatan

Throughout all the town, statues decorate the urban space helping to a more human and artistic atmosphere.

Other smaller residential streets display the typical nordic charm:


Lillfjärden Park

On the northeast side of the old inlet, now a lagoon, is the town's large public park.

At Kärleksstigen (Love Trail) in Lillfjärden Park stands the famous Povl Söndergaard's Statue of Modern Youth from 1935.

In the Lillfjarden Park there is also a very nordic beautiful Rosarium (at 61º N, remember !).

During the 16th century, after Hudiksvall was founded, Lillfjärden was the innermost part of Hudiksvallsfjärden, and the city's harbour and center. But larger boats could no longer get there and the city moved to the current location.

Today, Lillfjärden is a small lake that has been flooded by Hornån, whose final stretch to Möljen and Strömmingssundet since the 19th century is stoned and is called the "canal" but increasingly evolves into a flowing watercourse.

Still in the park, the small Theater, which was the first built in Hudiksvall.

The wooden theater was built in 1881.

The theater has retained most of its original interior and furnishings. The lounge is in pink, reddish-brown, with gold-plated wood.

The Railway Station

The station building in Hudiksvall opened in 1888

An elegant design that has been kept as new.

Sångartempel på Köpmanberget

The Sanger church temple at Köpmanberget.

After 16th century texts, at this elevated site people spanned the ocean after waiting ships. Five cannons defended the city from the Russians' ravages, though without great success... In the early 1900s, the city's craftsmen and merchants created a kind of public park, and in 1910, the Sångarförbund's singing temple opened on the hill. It was well-known architect Frej Berglund who designed the wooden pavillion.

Inside the dome, listening in silence, the singing voices from the past still resound...

The singing temple is owned and managed by the municipality of Hudiksvall.

Hudiksvall is a small but vibrant town, deserving to be visited for its pleasant and quiet ambiance as well as for architecture and history.

Lillfjärden by dusk.

Recently this region of central Sweden has been devastated by wildfires, almost unbelievable at such latitudes. I wish to leave a word of solidarity, support and friendship to the nordic friends who suffered from the tragedy.

Tuesday, 26 June 2018

Elduvik, hidden wonder village in the Faroe Islands,

Have you ever heard about Elduvik ? And still, this is a charming small village in astonishing scenario. Fjords are a Norse privilege, but Elduvik is not Icelandic, Norwegian, Greenlandic or even Canadian.

Elduvik sits on a remote corner of Eysturoy, an island of the remote Faroe archipelago. No wonder it keeps some authenticity from old times, and all that makes it a fine Ultima Thule.

Elduvik is an ancient settlement - the oldest written mention of the village is the Hundebrevet, a document from the Faroe Islands, written between 1350 and 1400.

On the Funningsfjørður inlet, at Eysturoy island's northeast side, Elduvik is 31 km north of Tórshavn, the capital town. The village is split into two parts by the small creek, and houses are assembled in two clusters on both sides of the little stream.

Elduvik east side and the view to Kalsoy in the distance.

Elduvík, Eysturoy, Faroe Islands

Coordinates: 62°17′ N, 6° 54′W
Population: ~ 30

Elduvík with its clustering houses protecting each other.

Old houses in traditional grass-roofed style are still standing.

Elduvik gives an impressive experience of the variety of Faroese scenery and habitation style.

A black tarred wooden house with foundations of masonry natural stone.

Tourist lodge for summer, Millum Stovu 2

The view:

The colors of Elduvik.

The first church in Elduvík was established in 1951.

Elduvik Church is just above the river. In front, the old school (red) facing the fiord.
It is built in white painted wood.

The clock tower that stands out from the gable.The church's old clock is from 1951, molded by The Smithy Foundries in Aalborg.

The church has three-storey ceilings and both the ceiling and walls are painted in a pale yellow color.

Under the ceiling hangs a model of a ferry boat.

The church does not turn west-east, as normal, but north-south.

Just a few meters from the church, "The Old Store" is now a tourist lodge.

And the nexr house has the post box and fire pump.

At the fjord's bank are the old stores and boat houses.

A ramp slipway to help the small boats up from the fjord's waters.

A scenic quay bt the Funning fjord.

The Stóra stream flowing into the fjord. Far away the island of Kalsoy.

An Aurora over the Funningsfjørður: