Wednesday, 24 February 2016

Cape Dorset (Nunavut), an art capital on the Arctic Archipelago, part I

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As I was writing this post, it became too long to publish in full just once. 
So I divided it in two, this is just a first part, in a few days the second part will appear.
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Cape Dorset Inuit: Kinngait, high mountains) is situated on flat ground at Dorset Island, close to Foxe Peninsula at the southwestern tip of Baffin Island. Surrounded by arctic landscapes, Dorset Island supports many forms of arctic wildlife, including herds of caribou or, sometimes, a wandering polar bear or two, and in Summer arctic wildflowers dappling the tundra valleys with vivid colours.


The Inuit settlement of Cape Dorset became well known for its modern community's outstanding artists: graphic artists, weavers, carvers, that have made the small settlement an Inuit art capital.

Cape Dorset sits on the northwest shore of Dorset Island, surrounded on one side by rocky hills and on the other by the Hudson Strait.

Most houses are improved containers or wooden cabins, carefully insulated from permafrost.


Cape Dorset

Coordinates:  63° 22’ N, 90° 51’ W
Population:    ~1300


People keep traditional life patterns, namely hunting and fishing as main activities.


The Hotel (above) and Northern store (below) are two small luxuries in town.



Recently a wooden red gazebo was installed at a view point; it is an unusual landmark for such a northern community, but they love it.


It was installed for residents to better enjoy the community and for visitors to mingle with residents. The scenery, overlooking the sea inlet and more distant mountains, is beautiful from every direction, there is enough room there for children and adults to be walking around outside.


View to the harbour at sunset.

Life in the far North flows slowly, marked by light and darkness, water and ice, remoteness and tradition.




Mallik Island


Mallikjuaq, just a few miles Cape Dorset, is an island of rounded rock hills and low tundra valleys, notable for hosting an ancient Dorset archaeological site. A thousand years ago, the Thule people lived on Mallikjuaq in low stone houses framed with whalebone ribs, which were roofed with hides and sod. The eastern end of the island contains the remains of nine winter houses with stone foundations still in place. Archaeological evidence indicates that earlier people from the Dorset Culture also inhabited the island for centuries before the Thule.

Dorset Culture ('Tuniit' or 'Sivullirmiut'):  500 BC to 1500 AD
Thule Culture (Proto-Inuit):                   
1000 AD to 1600 AD
Inuit Culture (Eskimo):                         
1600 AD to present-day


Tips of recent History

From the mid-19th century to the early 20th century, whalers and missionaries visited the area. In 1913, the Hudson's Bay Company (HBC) set up a trading post in Cape Dorset.


The settlement began to grow around it, Inuit people traded furs, tanned skins and ivory narwal tusks for supplies like kerosene, flour, tea and sugar. Between 1938 and 1953, Anglican and Roman Catholic missions were constructed in Cape Dorset. The first school and the first hospital ward were established in 1950.

By that time Cape Dorset started as a permanent settlement, and developped since then with health care, post office and co-op store, high school, airstrip and lounge...




The wreck of the Nascopie


One of the most historic and celebrated ships of the Hudson's Bay Company was the Royal Mail Ship Nascopie,  a 2500 ton steamer-icebreaker designed and built in England in 1911.

The RMS Nascopie started to make a yearly Arctic voyage, going farther and farther north, as far as Arctic Bay in 1926. At the time the Nascopie was the principal sea-lift resupply vessel used by the Hudsons Bay Company. The people in Cape Dorset used to celebrate the arrival of the Nascopie with fresh supplies, as they were happy go aboard and drink tea.


But in 1947, the Nascopie struck an uncharted reef and finished wrecked near Cape Dorset harbour.

Kananginak Pootoogook, "Aulajijakka" (Things I Remember): the wreck of the Nascopie.


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NEXT: Part II - Dorset Fine Arts


Sunday, 31 January 2016

Ultima Thule much browsed in New Zealand


The blog visit map, now by the end of January, shows strong incoming from New Zealand - I can't even see the islands under the blue pins!

Invercargill, Christchurch, Nelson, NewPlymouth, Napier...
A complete coverage !


I published in Ultima Thule two posts concerning New Zealand: Dunedin and Invercargill, two precious historic towns, at the southernmost latitudes of South Island.

Thanks for visiting !

Sunday, 17 January 2016

Lyngseidet,
a tiny beauty on the Lyngenfjord

I 'discovered' Lyngseidet because a high number of visitors from the village were registered here at the blog meter.
I wondered why so many people browsed Ultima Thule from that hidden small village of less than 1000. But it is, indeed, a lovely little village.


Lyngseidet is located on the Norwegian coast, deep into the Lyngenfjord and far above the Arctic Circle.


The settlement sits on an isthmus that is about 3 km wide between an arm of the Ullsfjord and the Lyngenfjord.

View from the fjord.

The small center around the ferry pier includes the church (down, left), the old bakery (center), the library, the post and grocery (red building, right), and the Strandveien coastal street bordering the fjord down to the Sorheim Brygge lodges. Small but friendly.


Lyngseidet is 500 km north of the arctic circle.

Coordinates: 69° 34′ N, 20° 13′ W
Population:  ~ 1000

On the old quay, some rorbuer (red cabins) still face the fjord - they are now tourist lodgings.


The village is still home to a bank, the ferry company, municipal offices, primary school and kindergarten

Arriving.

This wooden house presently offers tourist accomodation.

The 'old centre' is composed of just two wooden buildings, the Rossgården estate and the old bakery.


The bakery (right) dates back to the 19th century; it was usually the first shop to open in a new settlement. The ochre house is probably the oldest structure in Lyngseidet, with wood-panelled walls typical of the era.

The bakery was declared a listed building in 1982.

Rossgården, one of the best houses in town, a residence built also in the 19th century.

Lyngseidet has some importance as administrative centre of the municipality of Lyngen, in the Tromsø region of Norway. The municipality was established in 1838.





Sørheim Brygge (quay, pier), rorbuer lodging at Strandveien



Lyngen Church


The building of the current Lynge Church started in the 1100s. The choir and the vestry were added in the period 1375-1450, and later the porch, by 1500. The original church site was the neighbouring fishing hamlet of Oldervik.


The church tower was originally built in half-timbering, which gradually fell into disrepair, and the current tower was built in 1723.


Lingseidet has two high seasons - fishing season, in summer, and the snow season in early spring.

Sørheim Brygge in early spring.




The municipality has its own shipping company, operating the car ferries mainly to Tromsø and connecting with other fjord harbors around.



The Lyngen peninsula is a very scenic and mountainous area, known as the Lyngen Alps. The highest peak is the Jiehkkevárri, reaching 1 833 metres.


Taking a road to (from) Lyngseidet surely grants you the most magnificent views.



The alpine region around Lyngseidet is excellent for winter sports.

Fastdalstinden, the mountain nearby Lyngseidet.

White Heaven at high speed.